Getting rid of all filing/sanding marks than using scotch brite pads to get an uniform looks all around. It’s hard to get a fully gloss frame but you should be able to get it smooth enough so the clearcoat do the shine
Well, one thing I forgot to say in my question: “raw fillets”… How to deal with these?
Sorry I haven’t been fully following this thread but what I do is scotchbrite the whole frame, fillets and all. I’m aiming for a flat, even finish all over. Then the clearcoat brings it up to high gloss. Scotchbrite-like flap discs can speed things up but there are usually areas that can only really be done by hand. Every nook has to be as good as you can get it - under cable guides, etc.
The rust spiders etc have probably already been discussed but clear coat also tends to accentuate every tiny detail. Even faint marks left by a wire wheel and even if you think your brazing looks great, clear coat will make you think again
Anyone here do zinc chromate coatings? How does that compare to manganese/zinc phosphate or zinc coated paint? Zinc & maganese phosphate is also called parkerizing, correct? Or is that for bluing?
That’s for phosphate color, correct? So, what is the turbo midnight color? A black oxide? Is he doing something special to look like that longer without rusting?
How is this holding up?
I used Le Tonkinois varnish a few weeks ago to protect the modified dropouts. it cured quickly (24 h per layer, 4 layers). From what I have heard it is pretty sturdy as well.
It leaves a greenish/yellowish hue over the bare steel. I hope you can see it here. The application was pretty easy and the result looks good to me. Long time experience will show in the next few months…