Check out Kris at 44 bikes on his insta for jig ideas
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Thanks for all the help so far everyone. I’ve got some tubes on hand and am ready to finalize my design. I got the custom downtubes bent and just need a few more bits before I start building.
Some questions about my seatstays:
- My very first design had very little tire clearance on the seatstay for a 27.5x2.4. I keep moving the seatstay (and thus the shock pivot mount) outward for more clearance. I think a have enough clearance now (about .41in or 10.4mm) . See below:
- Because I have moved the pivot boss outward it is now sitting at about 3.63in (92mm) wide. I measured a few of my full suspension bikes and they are both a fair amount thinner a the shock mount. I am worried about hitting my legs on the bosses. Does anyone have some anecdotal numbers to show if this width is too much?
- Lastly, on my Paragon dropouts I have very little width margin on the hooded section for my .75in dia seatstays abut .035in (1mm). I thought that these dropouts were meant to accomodate .75in dia tubes but I’m worried about out the edges of the hood when welding. Have others encountered this? I am thinking I will squish the end of the tube to ovalize before mitering so I have more margin. Should I fillet braze this anyway? Getting the weld in between the seatstay and chainstay looks hard.
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Should have plenty of clearance on the seat stays, I aim for 5mm minimum. I don’t have any anecdotal evidence but my first full suspension was about that width and I didn’t notice it much riding apart from the occasional calf graze. Welding to those dropouts is tricky but definitely doable, squishing the tube ends will definitely help
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Maybe you tape some cardboard on your existing bike to see if your calves hit the frame? Why not put a bend in the CS to clear the tire?
A few companies make 19mm tapered stays that will give you more space on the dropout
The zona is pretty thin, .6mm thick
Faring has a few options:
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Thanks for the input. I pushed the seatstays back inward. I have about 6-7mm of seatstay and chainstay clearance on the rear tire.
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Daniel,
Good questions. I will play around with pedaling on some of my current bikes. I was hoping to keep the chainstays really simple with .75x.049 straight gage tubing.
If I use the unbent straight gage I can miter my tubing easily without a stay mitering fixture (which I don’t have). For the chainstays I will build something out of 80/20 and 3D printed stuff and struggle through.
I could use the tapered Zona stays or similar. I specced .049 wall originally because I was worried about laterial rigidity in the rear triangle. I have also ovalized (squished) tubing for more clearance in the past (got that from a Paul Brodie video) I think it works well.
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