A long time lurker and new builder working on frame #4 right now, my first full suspension build
I’ve searched through a few different threads, but still have some questions so here goes:
On the main pivot is there benefit to using a spacer between the rear triangle/bearings and the front triangle? Looking at Norco’s exploded diagrams they do, while others like Orange don’t..
Is it a good idea to tie the two halves of a rear triangle together with a yoke? I assume doing so would stiffen things up. I’ve toyed with both in Solidworks and haven’t settled on anything yet
I’d like my bearings to be in the rear triangle, what sort of fitment do I need on the pivot shaft/frame interface? I was going to ream 3/4 x .095 to 15mm and turn/purchase 15mm pivot hardware. Should this actually have a slight interference fit, or be brazed in? It seems like the Orange frame has some kind based on their bearing removal instructions.
Thanks! It’s been fun following along with so many other builds and having a safe space to ask questions!
Looks amazing! I have been thinking about the same problem. I used to work at a bicycle shop as a mechanic and my best friend who worked there with me had an Starling Murmur. I looked at it and the Bearing are rrally nicely placed.
The idea is, make it simple. That means no spacers between the Bearing and the frame.
What Starling came out with is really clever; The Bearing is inserted by hand from the inside faces of the Housing plates. When seated properly, the bearing sits proud of the housihg by like 0.10mm so when you slide the Swingarm into place the only contact points with the frame are the Bearing inner race’s faces. Both bearings then, sit flush with the frame welded pivot point cylinder which has the pivot axle through it. This way spacers aren’t needed. You just slide the swingarm into alignement and plunge the main pivot axle trough. It’s a great system.
If I was doing plates similar to what you are doing I’d braze stainless washers to the inside of the plate. This would be where I put the bearings in the frame. My first mtb frame the bearings were in the swing arm and I don’t like it.
I don’t think there’s any inherent benefit of using spacers other than perhaps to spread the bearings further apart but that of course could just be done with the axle spacing itself. They might also be used as a bearing shield.
It’s all quite dependant on the arrangement of your bearings and axle I think, they’re literally just used to enable things to go together and come apart again (without damaging paint etc).
If you can make it do that without them then that would be a win I think.
100% do the yoke. And a SS bridge if it’ll fit.
Not totally sure what you mean here but I think 15mm is a good size for a single pivot. Turn your axle 0.05-0.1 under for a close slip fit.
it looks really good!