.875x.049 Chromoly
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Very nice! In the late '70s and early '80s in Davis, CA, we made quite a few handlebars for our Woodsy (aka Mountain) Bikes. They included the gooseneck, many having fixed angles, but some were adjustable. At the time, most staight-ish bars were made for either kids or ‘adult’ bikes and didn’t have appropriate shape (picture sitting up straight with your hands back) and were either very heavy or would bend easily. I’ll need to really dig to try to find pictures (they are actual prints, in a box, somewhere).
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A non-related question… Why does your basket need to turn? It looks like a fair amount of work went into that, and I’m curious what the reason is.
I don’t think it’s basket that’s turning. It’s the fork.
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Oh, okay… So, the bars are back from the fork some distance, putting the weight of the basket directly over the fork. That makes more sense - I guess that the basket is used to carry some heavy stuff!
The basket doesn’t turn but the front end has been extended by moving the fork forward and adding a remote steering link. The basket does not move and as you mentioned the weight is directly on top of the fork
I would love to see some of those prints of handlebar action in the 70’s and 80’s!!
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Thanks! Those photos make everything clear. Very nice.
As I mentioned, most of my photos are pre-digital, and are still paper prints stashed in boxes. I was very active in getting Woodsie Bikes (to become known as Mountain Bikes) built and raced. I worked with John Finley Scott in Davis CA and rode with some people that you might have heard about (Tom Ritchey, Gary Fisher, …). Check out the story of JFS on the Marin Museum site: https://mmbhof.org/mtn-bike-hall-of-fame/history/john-finley-scott/
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These are so rad. Getting me stoked to make a bar very soon. It will be a 7/8"x .065" TI mtb bar with 50mm rise (and a 5/8" crossbar). Should I knurl the stem clamping area?
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Not sure if the Knurling is necessary. The Knurling on that bar was more ascetics than for function.
If you are making it for an off road or jump bike I would say yes, knurl it. I use paragon machines works stem shims (22mm to 31.8mm) and a stem with a good 4 bolt clamp.
I haven’t worked with titanium, is .065 overkill?
MTB bars so I think I will knurl the clamping area. The .065" titanium tubing I can flex in my hands! I really doubt its overkill. crossbar should stiffen it up though
I don’t work with titanium, I can only offer what I have read. From what I understand about 4130 vs Ti is that they are pretty close in mechanical strength. .049" 4130 is plenty strong for bicycle handlebars and I would imagine .049 Ti is strong enough for handlebars as well (I would love to hear opinions). If you are going through the trouble and expense of making handlebars out Ti, why not make them as light as possible? If you already bought the .065 then absolutely use it. Please post your experience, I would love to hear.
Ive been riding and making titanium bars from .065 material, when I add a crossbar I use 1/2" .035. For people over 200# I am using .086" tubing. They are not knurled and have never slipped, my riding style would not be characterized as gentle. I would be cautious using form knurling on titanium as it could cause cracking or work hardening that leads to cracks, but that’s my opinion.
Make yourself some titanium bars, you will not be disappointed.
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Those bars look beautiful! .065” wall thickness for Ti bars, thanks for sharing!
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Nice work! I like that anodizing too
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Those look great! What are you using for a bender?
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I am using a JMR rotary draw bender a 4.25" CLR die with an acetal follow block to help things slide better and not leave scratches. @happywelder Anodizing is another fun aspect of working with titanium!
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Thanks, great work.
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