@BikeFabSupply
I’m interested in using a machined headtube from BFS like the one linked here.
For those who’ve used these pre-machined headtubes did you have to ream the races afterwards for a good fit? If not, what kind of heatsink setup did you use? If it’s possible for me to skip reaming that would be ideal, but I can see how it might be unavoidable. I plan to bronze braze.
And if reaming/facing is always required, does this style have a functional advantage over external cups? or is it a cosmetic choice.
Thanks for any input.
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I’ve used these headtubes exclusively due to not requiring the reamer tooling. I’ve tig welded all my frames however, so might not apply on what would be required if you braze, but I’ve never had any issues inserting headsets FWIW. I usually used some aluminum heatsinks that had a pretty close fit on the bearing surfaces, and it made the bearing fit better post welding, but it also worked just fine without them.
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Thanks for the insight.
If someone could chime in on warping from tig vs brazing that would be cool. I imagine the lower heat of brazing would make things less prone to warping but it’s also a prolonged heat so maybe that’s not the case.
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Hi John
thanks for looking at the BFS Tapred head tubes for your build .
I can let you know that I have many folks who have used these for bikes( bmx to downhill) and motorized drift trikes quite often. Many folks who have used them are first time builders and do not have the reaming tools.( a huge expense) The races are machined very well and is a strong sections of the head tube and not likely you are going to warp them with brazing. I would say try to keep your braze below the actual race will help for sure, and just having good heat control when brazing near them. Also if you want to do some simple heat sinks in alum or brass would be fine.
Look forward to supply you
Cheers
Andrew
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Andrew,
Thank you for the advice. Very helpful.
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