I am trying to mock-up the rear brake as well, unfortunately I don’t think I will be able to fit it between the chain and seat stay… I would need to add a bend on the seat stay to make it fit and I don’t really want to at this stage. It’s too bad because I really wanted to keep the lines clean
Super neat. About to make the same dropper port mod to a bike here. Which port did you use there? And what were ya reasons for going with brass over silver?
I got my ports from framebuildersupply.com, I wish I had the double ones too, Metalguru has them, if you need to pass two cables in one hole.
I used brass because I wasn’t sure how much it was needed and I don’t want to waste silver on it, also in my mind brass is stronger so I convinced myself it was the better option.
If I do it again I would 100% use silver
I would have thought silver these for sure so good to know. I’ve already drilled the hole to pass the cable through but really should get it reinforced/finished properly.
originally I wanted to route the cable via the chainstay and place the caliper in between the stays BUT it simply doesn’t fit.
I could still route the cable down the downtube and chainstay and then have it go all the way up like in the picture but I am not sure I like it, I could add a brace to sort-of hide the cable.
This solution would require the least amount of cable guides as I already got the 3-way cable guides
The other option is to route the brake cable via the top tube and I would do this via an internal routing (tt only), it would avoid the cable moving from chain to seat stay (that I really don’t like) but it would require to add two internal-cable-routing ports on the TT and I am having a hard time talking myself into doing that.
What is y’all opinion on the best cable routing? I have seen it done both ways.
On my MTB I have the shift cable and brake line running together down the bottom left of the downtube and then they go their own way below the BB, I think that gives the cleanest lines without doing the effort of internal routing.
The cable/line also run together from the handlebars really nicely and look basically like one cable.
I got a front IS mount that I think it would work but it won’t work without modifications and I need advice.
Because of the fork dropouts, the IS tab doesn’t fit all the way, the lower foot doesn’t touch anything
#2 Use the orange fork (and old Vassago rigid fork), but it will need shortening of at least 30mm, I thought that maybe I can find a sleeve and braze it, I have done something similar with a fork steerer and works well, the challenge would be to find a tube that fits snug inside to act as a sleeve but I won’t know the internal diameter until I cut it open. The big question is: would it be safe once the shortening procedure is done or not? Anyone done it before?
you could also just go for it. i did had a similar, but smaller, gap on a hard rock fork i put a tab on, i felt like the gap was small enough and just filled it in.
pls excuse the ugly brazing
Alright, update, i measured everything thrice also with a different adapter and different fork, I didn’t trust the Zoom brake to begin with.
It seems that I have to file off some material off the base of the IS tab as the lower part is too out, I believe I can also raise a little once the tab is filed to measure and maybe just maybe I can make it work - finger crossed.
Turns out I must have misaligned the cheapo brake caliper on the disc because I need a couple of spacers to have everything aligned correctly, overall happy with the braze
This bike is being setup 1x9 with a Shimano Cues, the BB is a square taper.
I was about to order a 73x125 like suggested from Shimano but their 50mm chainline doesn’t resonate with me, this is not a boost frame.
I had a 73x113 laying around and with it the chainline is dead center in the cassette at 45.5mm
Question: is that a good chainline for a 135 rear spacing? Should I move to a 73x118 that would give me a 47.5mm chainline?
I am also keeping an eye on Q-Factor, my wife is 5’4" and with the 113mm BB I have plenty of clearance already and I am inclined to keep that.
It’s my wife new bike, I have to still finish some brazing but it’s minor - works very well.
In hindsight I would have tried to fit 650b wheels as it’s easier to find good rubber for them
That’s fantastic! looks like a proper ripper. I’ve been needing some motivation to prepare for my friends retro bike campout. And this is right up my alley. Although 650 might be easier to get good tires, this looks quite proportional.
