Rags to riches? From 90s MTB to modern bikepacking rig

Waiting for some different cable guides as I either don’t have enough or not the right kind…

Added some seatpost cable entry, just as a future-proof measure

Cutting the hole by hand and then filing it down to fit - I have to say, didn’t take long at all.

Test fit - fits snug and doesn’t move, perfect!

I think I had the flame a little too hot, used brass this time and it didn’t melt the nearby silver braze so I take that as a win.

Final result after cleaning it up:

I am trying to mock-up the rear brake as well, unfortunately I don’t think I will be able to fit it between the chain and seat stay… I would need to add a bend on the seat stay to make it fit and I don’t really want to at this stage. It’s too bad because I really wanted to keep the lines clean

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Super neat. About to make the same dropper port mod to a bike here. Which port did you use there? And what were ya reasons for going with brass over silver?

I got my ports from framebuildersupply.com, I wish I had the double ones too, Metalguru has them, if you need to pass two cables in one hole.

I used brass because I wasn’t sure how much it was needed and I don’t want to waste silver on it, also in my mind brass is stronger so I convinced myself it was the better option.
If I do it again I would 100% use silver

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Nice. Having a look at them now!

I would have thought silver these for sure so good to know. I’ve already drilled the hole to pass the cable through but really should get it reinforced/finished properly.

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I brazed the disc tab, it wasn’t easy, most likely will need to clean it up and add some more

Now, let’s talk cable routing


originally I wanted to route the cable via the chainstay and place the caliper in between the stays BUT it simply doesn’t fit.
I could still route the cable down the downtube and chainstay and then have it go all the way up like in the picture but I am not sure I like it, I could add a brace to sort-of hide the cable.
This solution would require the least amount of cable guides as I already got the 3-way cable guides

The other option is to route the brake cable via the top tube and I would do this via an internal routing (tt only), it would avoid the cable moving from chain to seat stay (that I really don’t like) but it would require to add two internal-cable-routing ports on the TT and I am having a hard time talking myself into doing that.

What is y’all opinion on the best cable routing? I have seen it done both ways.

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i would do downtube and chain stay personally. i’ve done it both ways though.
you’re gonna want a brace either way

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On my MTB I have the shift cable and brake line running together down the bottom left of the downtube and then they go their own way below the BB, I think that gives the cleanest lines without doing the effort of internal routing.
The cable/line also run together from the handlebars really nicely and look basically like one cable.

They don’t originally route this way, I have both ziptied to the single guides originally meant for a front derailleur

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Decisions decisions

I got a front IS mount that I think it would work but it won’t work without modifications and I need advice.
Because of the fork dropouts, the IS tab doesn’t fit all the way, the lower foot doesn’t touch anything

I have some options
#1 cut the last part of the tab and hope for the best

#2 Use the orange fork (and old Vassago rigid fork), but it will need shortening of at least 30mm, I thought that maybe I can find a sleeve and braze it, I have done something similar with a fork steerer and works well, the challenge would be to find a tube that fits snug inside to act as a sleeve but I won’t know the internal diameter until I cut it open. The big question is: would it be safe once the shortening procedure is done or not? Anyone done it before?

#3 Third option is to buy a new fork, Surly Cocktail most likely and keep both of these for other projects.

you could totally cut that lower part off and be fine imo

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you could also cut the lower part off and weld on a new piece that attaches to the fork appropriately.

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you could also just go for it. i did had a similar, but smaller, gap on a hard rock fork i put a tab on, i felt like the gap was small enough and just filled it in.
pls excuse the ugly brazing



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That’s got my vote.

Looking closer, I’d cut that little ear off and fill the round hole that’s there with a hole saw slug and send it.

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Alright, update, i measured everything thrice also with a different adapter and different fork, I didn’t trust the Zoom brake to begin with.

It seems that I have to file off some material off the base of the IS tab as the lower part is too out, I believe I can also raise a little once the tab is filed to measure and maybe just maybe I can make it work - finger crossed.

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Alright, after some adjusting, it turns out that the lower foot made it to the fork just enough that I didn’t need to cut it.

Turns out I must have misaligned the cheapo brake caliper on the disc because I need a couple of spacers to have everything aligned correctly, overall happy with the braze

Now I can test ride it!

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Chainline question

This bike is being setup 1x9 with a Shimano Cues, the BB is a square taper.
I was about to order a 73x125 like suggested from Shimano but their 50mm chainline doesn’t resonate with me, this is not a boost frame.

I had a 73x113 laying around and with it the chainline is dead center in the cassette at 45.5mm

Question: is that a good chainline for a 135 rear spacing? Should I move to a 73x118 that would give me a 47.5mm chainline?

I am also keeping an eye on Q-Factor, my wife is 5’4" and with the 113mm BB I have plenty of clearance already and I am inclined to keep that.

Am I missing something?

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Yes for 135 rear spacing (certainly 9 speed, but probably anything) you want a chainline of 47.5.