Steel fixture rust protection

General Discussion
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Hi, I have an Academy LCFF that I’m overhauling to deal with some surface rust that has started to form. Currently debating the best surface treatment option for all the moving parts. It needs to be super thin, hard, non-tacky, and reasonably durable. Cheap would also be cool.
In the running so far are:
Paste wax (car type or woodworking type?)
Boiled linseed oil
Polyurethane oil (Varathane #66)

Another concern is how the finishes would react to heat, although I’ll probably only be tig welding in and around the jig.

Please share your grandpas tips for keeping steel tools from rusting in humid environments!

Cheers

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Hi,

I’d treat it like a welding table or machine tool - oil the surfaces frequently with a non-drying oil and wipe off the excess. WD-40 isn’t perfect but it is cheap and accessible.

Use a little oil and scotchbrite if you’re seeing corrosion.

Paint the parts that are not critical surfaces and are away from heat.

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I cold-blued mine and as of today no rust.

I bought a bottle of blueing agent and I still have most of it, I use it often on every metal surface that I want to protect but keep raw

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Want to avoid dust sticking that way oil and stuff would cause

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BLO is a no-go IMO. Even when you thin it down with spirits it can take a few days to a week for it to “dry.” I’ve used it on trucks/cars to protect a patina finish but its just a PITA IMO and I HATE the tacky feeling.

I’d use Johnson’s paste wax and reapply every few weeks. I worked in a woodshop about 1.5 miles from the ocean (I’m in Los Angeles fwiw) and we used it w/out an issue. Apply with some 000 steel wool and make sure to use gloves. Don’t forget to buff it.

WD-40 isn’t great IMO. I had to store a drill press outside for a few weeks and coated the table with it. Surface rust popped up within 3-4 days.

If you don’t mind a slightly oily/waxy finish you can try T9 Boeshield. Some folks I know swear by it.

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WD-40 sucks, but for interior use, wipe down once a week and you’ll be fine. Definitely not for storage.

The fancy way to handle this is a functional plating - nickel, chrome, proper black oxide (cold blue is great but doesn’t offer much protection long term). Anything else is either thick, not durable when subjected to sliding metal contact, or requires frequent application.

Since the OP is worried about dust and wants to keep it inexpensive, I’ll second wax and a good buff every week or so. Smells nice too.

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Looks nice but at that price I’d send it for oxide treatment

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If you’re in the U.S. you can buy Starrett M1 from McMaster for $16 a can. I’ve also heard people speak highly of LPS 1 but don’t have personal experience with it.

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Johnson’s paste wax is no longer made, but any woodworking wax is a suitable substitute. They are mostly based on carnauba. You can use a car wax as long as it’s silicone free. Simoniz will work, but it’s more expensive than Minwax.

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What about camphor? I have read that it’s a good rust protector, people keep a tablet in their tool chest and it slowly evaporates coating everything (and it doesn’t seem to leave an oily surface).

I am about to try it out for my metal tool chests

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Cool never heard of this use for camphor, sounds interesting for things kept in an enclosed space but not sure it would do much if the jig is out in a garage. Imagining some eye watering fumes if it was enough to fill a room haha

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+1 for the starret m1 tool oil

Or I treat a lot of metal in furniture I build (but also the hearth of my woodstove) by heating the metal slightly (think tiger torch) and then applying beeswax, after a through degreasing of course

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