Avast ye landlubbers!
I’ll post some build photos here while I drink coffee in the mornings, starting with ‘Chingona’!
In collaboration with Wren Sports (and a number of other industry contributors), this frame was built and donated for an athlete who was a member of last year’s Ride for Racial Justice cohort. Ride for racial justice is a 503c non profit which exists to ensure access to resources, education, and community for Black, Indigenous and People of Color cyclists. The cohort would go on to race at SBT GRVL in August of 2022.
This was the first boost spacing frame for me so time for a new dummy axle. Not fancy but gets the job done. Also for any bringheli users, the Farr frameworks upgrades are money well spent.
This is always sketchy, tiny lathe, big tube, small cuts…
I turn these head tube rings for most of my frames
I also eat gummy bears
Maxing out the toob bender
Paragon blocks and a flat surface to scribe some centerlines
Top tube smooshing, very scientific
Konga yoke for 3" tire clearance
Bronze badges from send cut send, the fists are from the ride for racial justice logo
First time welding one of these seat collars
Fight the power boss re-nforcements
Some raw fillets
Got this gravel bike back from powder this morning…
I love your work! So many cool details.
I’m a huge fan of this bike, and live in the same town as the owner! We’re collaborating on some cool community bike programming really awesome to see framebuilders supporting justice work like this
Very nice swood cycles.
How do you hold the ovalized top tube for mitering?
As long as the oval is pretty uniform throughout the tube, a v-block will hold both miters in phase.
Fortunately, my tube notcher’s vise is essentially a v-block
—Flip flop basket commuter build—
Bikes look rad. Random question, I looked at your site and you mention meeting up “mono y mono” which means “monkey and monkey” (unless you’re talking about mononucleosis, the disease). Was that deliberate?
Sorry, just curious. It was an odd thing to read so maybe there’s an inside joke I don’t know.
HAH! I was always under the impression it meant ‘one on one’.
Well, if you’re aiming for the Spanish speaking community, they will probably think it’s funny. Monkeys meeting up to discuss bikes over beers! Sounds awesome.
“Mano a mano” is commonly misunderstood to mean that too (it means “hand to hand”).
For this morning’s coffee time…
This bike was at PBE in 2021 I believe. I was pretty lucky to have a customer that basically said ‘I want a show bike, money is no object’…
I was still drawing rear ends by hand back then
Doh! looks like I dropped this tube…
First time doing any sort of sleeve/bilam stuff
First seatmast and topper
Maggie performing the olfactory inspection
Used to cut all my head badges by hand, each one unique
Thanks for looking!
Love all the little details on that bike. They all work well togheter.
What ID/OD were you using for the topper and the seat tube? I have been eyeing glued-in seat tubes. Do you have any thoughts on the ISP designs?
I believe the seatmast was 1.25"(31.8mm). x.035"
The sleeves were 1.375" (35mm) x .058 - ID 1.259 (if i recall, i turned down the OD to shave some beef)
The topper was 1.375" x .049 - ID 1.277 to leave some extra room for paint.
I normally powder coat all my frames, but this one was wet painted and clamping the topper left blemishes. If I seatmast again, it will be carbon or at least have some sort of stainless upper for the topper to clamp on without harming the paint.
Perhaps powder could hold up to the clamping but it is often thicker, risking the topper wont even fit.
I’ve been wanting to do a carbon mast for some time, I think there’s a road bike in my queue that might get the treatment this year!
Damn that thing is sexy. The polished branding really pops! What tubing are you using for your internal cable routing?
These are 304 Stainless. .25"OD, .21"ID. 12$ for a 6’ stick from Grainger.
This will tightly fit shimano and sram hydro lines BUT NOT TRP, they use some chonky 5.5mm lines.
Nice, that’s a pretty solid deal. Good call on watching out for the chonky lines. I’m in the middle of a build with some hayes brakes that also use the chonky lines.
What dropouts are those, BFS?
However, after working with them on this bike and some others, I’m not a huge fan. The way the inserts mate to the body made for trouble when trying to align the dropouts. There aren’t any screws on the back half of the insert and it felt like I was bending the inserts rather than moving the dropout body.