I got a DH bike for you too Sicko.
@Schonstudio I might be going to Crankworx this year. Yay.
We had to put the bikes away and dig out the winter gear. Yesterday was a wonderful day up on the mountain. It’s crazy the difference in 2 days.
Big slide
I make snowboards at home too. I’d like to combine the two and make something out of carbon for bikes. I just haven’t figured out what yet.
Back to bike stuff. I started making the seat tube, pivots and pieces for a new frame.
Old Schaublin 102 lathe
One pivot is ready and one more to go. I have to turn them down to 22mm x 17mm. The hole saw dictates the OD and the axle the ID. I should look into making them lighter but for now I’m just happy I can make a rideable frame.
Seat tube clamp coming along. I would like to learn how to braze someday.
Small shop…. for now.
Yo.
Just wanted to say that I’ve seen your gambler-custom floating about on the internet and very much admire it. It’s very much in vein of where I’d like to do next… came this close (indicates a small distance between finger and thumb) from buying a cracked gambler locally but got pipped to it last second.
The snowboard stuff is also super rad, and I’ve been wanting to do some skis for a bit now, being a boarder but recently-turned-skier.
Love your work mate.
Thanks Fuzzmuffin!
I’m very happy with how all this is working out. Let me know if you need any tips on either projects. I’m just learning here and very willing to share what I think I know.
Wow, these front triangles look amazing! I’m currently working on a build with a very similar ST-TT gusset. What are your thoughts on leaving the portion of the gusset un-welded where it meets the top tube? Is this similar to the idea behind the head tube gussets with portions un-welded for some flex allowance? Also, is there any concern of water finding its way in there?
Thanks @Kitchen
Good question!
I’m a beginner so take that into consideration. I go back and forth between aesthetics and function. I don’t sell these and if I did then I would put a gusset on there.
If I paint the frame then I put a gusset in there. If I left the frame raw then I keep an eye on it and would put a gusset on there if it starts moving.
I like the look of no gusset on the ST/TT junction. Since my seat post has enough insertion to go down to the gusset for the main pivot just below the top tube I was justifying that it is supported by that at as well.
When I don’t put one on there, it is purely for looks and probably not a good idea but I don’t know. Maybe someone else has a theory? I wonder what the test is for seattubes and if I could replicate it with some weights falling from a specified distance and flexing the seat tube?
This is my favorite st/tt gusset I’ve done so far. I like the low slung top tubes so I should probably just do the gussets.
That does look really good! Is this just a 34.9mm tube that you chopped? Or did you bend a sheet to form it?
I think that was a 31.8mm tube.
35mm gets more wrap around the 31.8mm top tube than I like and I have to bend the edges more for fit up.
I have tried to start with 38mm and flatten the extra but you can see my attempts at hammer forming so I wasn’t happy with the end result but I should make a form for that stuff. I like 31.8mmm for now due to top tube width.
38mm tube with flattened sides. Probably should have started with plate but learning by doing hey!
On this one I didn’t connect the weld on the top tube wondering if that could be a stress riser. Similar idea to a DT/HT gusset.
Interesting point about the seat post offering additional support. That’s something I hadn’t considered. It’s good to know they have been holding up fine for ya even without a gusset too.
I haven’t put a gusset on any of my mtb’s so far. I am running a 35 od tube wil 1.7mm walls for a 31.6mm seat post. So the tube is strong enough t not need one. This gets spliced to a bent 0.9mm wall tube. I am getting Columbus to quote me up some custom tube sets which I may reduce the seat tube to a consistent wall thickness and then use a doubling plate for the pivot and a gussett for the extension.
Ive also done a variation where I have machined the outside of the tube down to drop some weight out of it. The latest variation I basically a halved teh weight of the tube. That seat tube was a no go though as the angle joint is not the strongest or lightest way to go about it.
I’d like to combine the two and make something out of carbon for bikes. I just haven’t figured out what yet.
What about a rack made with part of a snowboard deck? Talking front rack and rear rack, you could use a ski for the rear to have it narrower - that said, if you do make them custom, you can do them as wide or as narrow as you like - just an idea 
Thanks for showing how you do yours @DEVLINCC ! I look at your stuff for inspiration all the time. Beautiful work and I love seeing more details and the insight! Thanks. The gussets and externat butting are really cool.
Sorry for hijacking Ben’s build log too. I getxa but enthusiastic at times.
Oh please do! I love your stuff and I’m just starting out making these.
More happy to share what Ive learned if it helps you refine your bikes. 
That’s why I love this place! Everyone is so willing to share their knowledge. It’s wonderful!
When documenting my builds I often feel like it takes away from the moments when I’m building. Sometimes, I think I should take a picture then I think, no, this is just for me.
Here are some pics on my shortest one for playing around.
Starting to get better at miters. I was very happy with this one.
Gualdoni Horizontal mill
Bending a 35mm x 1.5mm tube at my buddy’s shop for a future DH bike. Up until then I was designing around a 210mm dropper post.
I got sidetracked and started building the DH bike’s seat tube assembly.
I was using the pedal here without any pulse. I had been tig welding on and off for 3 months at this point. I was seeing progress and loving it. I’m self taught, btw. So, any advice is appreciated.
Trying to figure tig things out.
Making some pretty shock hardware. Ti bolt with alu washer.
My wife doing some huck to flat testing.
CAD on the shock mount.
Making shapes
Weld them together so they are identical shapes.
Working out the starting leverage ratio and bb height.
Modifying the head tube a little just for aesthaetics.
Down tube miters
This one is deliberately short and steep for manuals and general playing around. However, It is sketchy at speed if my friends are all on DH bikes.
I’ll try and do a better job of documenting as I go on the next one.
I should use the slitting saw more often because I’m always crooked when using a disc grinder, haha.
Seat clampin’
My first frame had a too steep seat angle but it worked excellent for seated manuals.
Nice tacks. That’s the hardest part for me. I have been practicing a lot since I popped a big hole in my frame.
That’s sick! That’s way more picture than I ever take during my build…I need to improve that!
Thumbs up for the freehand sheet metal shaping too!
I get average results doing so, Even tho i’d like to prototype parts this way before sending them to the laser cutter !
