Tried something like that, I have bent the lever… Never tried the HF one but on that same concept, you could easily fab something like this one
Prices of this very same varies from $18 on Amazon to ~$30 on McMaster, sadly it doesn’t do 3/8 steel but I wonder if you could design a more sturdy plate (SendCutSend?) that could be adjusted, and then print some solid dies - it definitely seems like it would be easier to apply force compared to the HF one.
I just ordered a Cobra with a 3/4x9" for CS bending with yokes. I will get other dies as I need.
I have seen a few people do it, but I think this technique is mostly on hobby frame builder frames. I don’t know if there are enough data points to know how sturdy this setup is.
I think the more modern technique is to 3D print an elbow joint:
It’s still a new technique, so there are probably not enough samples in the field. However, I imagine there is some level of wall thickness that would make that design work.
I don’t know why, but seeing that elbow joint, shock mount and the grain orientation in that 3D print, has me slightly worried. I know I shouldn’t be worried and they probably have tested that or at least done some FEA, but I’d love to see what 100,000 cycles of the suspension does to that.
totally agreed. You already see tons of CNC aluminum frame failures. That material is much more consistent and better understood. I have a pretty conservative approach to 3D printing, but I’m happy to see people pushing the workflows and taking risks so I don’t have to 
Generally a no but if it’s way overbuilt it can work. On that particular bike I’d say clearances were enough thet you didn’t need to bend the down tube. The most efficiant structure is directly bewteen two points. You’d only bend for space or aesthetics… or both. lol 
Definitely broke that first DH bike at the top butt-weld, though after a good half a year of high abuse. I imagine if it was gusseted and it wasn’t for a high-stress type of bike it might work.
Would it put more stress on the position? And, does it really have to be in the thicker butt? It’s intended for a hardtail so I think more carefulness is necessary than all-road…Thanks!
In theory, bending steel makes it stronger due to work hardening. As long as you don’t introduce a wrinkle or bend an aggressive diameter, it should be fine. Doutubes are bent, and they experience a lot more force.
The bend can be on the thin section. The only thing is, it can’t be on a transition. The change in stiffness will create a wrinkle on the thick-to-thin transition.
Ah I remember the video. Thanks Daniel, and happy 2025!
I want to ask about fork blade bending please:
Since i’m uncertain of the desired of the trail, can I start with a 55mm offset then bend it more (to 60 or 65) if I want less trail?
It will be a “French flick” on the slender “Toei Special” blade like this Wilde
