Which coat is pulling up/coming off? The clear off the color, or the color off the primer/bare tube (not said, was primer was first applied)?
I have used a 2 part rattle can clear to go over Rustoleum colors before with that not being the issue, don’t remember the brand. I did use Rustoleum primer first and sanded between the different layers.
Generally paints will have a window of recoating being fine, after which it’s usually suggested to dull/sand the surface before the next layer. I’ve even done this with a powder coated color as the base. But my rattle can jobs have been temporary ones, till I got a more controllable/auto type set up, so their possible short life wasn’t an issue for me. Andy
I agree with the previous comment that if you want something that’s going to actually hold up with a great finish long term, the only real solution at this point is to strip everything off and start over with a hardened Urethane type finish (either rattle can or from a spray gun). But let me add a slightly different point of view to the discussion-
Why not embrace the chipping paint and just enjoy it? A well worn bike is a beautiful thing in its’ own right. It’s a lot of work to get any bike fully cleaned up and painted like you’ve already done- does it NEED to be the most durable possible? The Rust-Oleum 2X job you did was certainly already labor intensive, but I can tell you that doing it with the full suite of automotive finishes to get it to the best/most durable finish will be an order of magnitude more work (and more expensive).
Like they say, horses for courses. If you love the bike and would find the work rewarding, I say go for it- just don’t want you to feel like you HAVE to do anything. Touching up a bike with primer/some paint if it chips to bare metal and just riding the stink out of it is just as good an answer if it makes you happy.
Depends how much chipping… For my first builds I used spray.bike with the spray.bike 1k clear. OK on anything with fenders, but big chunks of paint were coming off if you went out in the winter without them. Repainted with 2K clear and it’s good enough. You will get the odd chip from going on trains etc. etc. and I agree that’s fine. Gotta just ride the bike!
Hi all, I’m experimenting with an effect I really like but am struggling to come up with a way where it actually comes out looking really nice.
I work with steel and bought a brush plating kit to apply nickel/chrome to my tubes so I can hopefully mask it off, do all my paint work, then peel the decal to reveal the chrome effect underneath. It works great for larger areas but for intricate stuff (like my logo here) I have had zero success getting the mask to peel off cleanly. This makes total sense, as I’m applying the mask to bare metal and has to mask through primer and all the other paint coats and by the time i’m peeling it off those have had plenty of time to cure. Nonetheless, I’d love to come up with a repeatable way to pull off the effect as I really dig how it looks and the idea of showing the actual metal as a way to distinguish it from a carbon bike.
I’ve looked into just doing a chrome paint on this decal which I know would work but doesn’t carry the same design ethos I like so much.
Anyone done something similar with any success and have tips?With this one, I went around the whole design with an exacto blade to cut the paint away then peel, and it works but it’s high risk and insanely tedious, not to mention not perfect.
