What are folks using for internal rust treatment after frame completion for steel frames? I’ve used FrameSaver, as well as Boeshield T9. It seems like Framesaver might no longer be available as Q has discontinued the item. I like Boeshield in other applications so I’d be happy to hear that others have had good luck over the years with it.
I build lugged frames and every tube is vented so it is easy to get access (and to let any moisture exit). I am located in Minneapolis where winter is wet and very salty, so rust is a real threat if steel is not protected with paint or oil, even if a bicycle is used only occasionally in the winter or shoulder season . I spent enough years working on high-mileage bikes in shops to see many otherwise great bikes end life early due to internal rust.
I’ve heard of some builders using linseed oil which is intriguing to me, or other brands of ‘fogging’ oil similar to FrameSaver. I’m curious what people are using out there.
This might belong in general discussion but Education seems like a fine place for it too-
Boeshield will work great and it’s been what I’ve used.
For very wet environments and steel bikes I will often seat everything but the seat/head tubes regardless, though.
I’m planning to try boiled linseed oil when my 1/3 of a can runs out. Without the aerosol foaming, it’s going to be even messier and harder to coat everything, but I’m pretty sure it’s mostly the same thing, based on the smell. I just did a quick search for high viscosity spray bottles, and they seem to exist. I will try rigging something up when the time comes.
Or else a syringe
Framesaver is also my preferred spoke prep
I have used FrameSaver in the past. I currently use LPS #3, which I learned about from Sean at SoulCraft. I think it’s similar to Boeshield T9.
Not sure what I’m going to use yet, but I’ve been kicking around the idea of using an automotive internal rust preventative coating. I know KBS and Eastwood both sell spray can versions with a long tube to apply it. Also have considered using motorcycle chain wax, since it leaves a nice sealed coating after it dries. Does anyone’s have any experience with these options?
I use Woolwax on my truck frame/underside to prevent/slow down corrosion, and have been impressed enough that I’ve wondered about using it for inside frames. It’s more expensive per can than Boeshield T9 though, and messier. They do sell long applicators for it as well.
I use KBS Cavity Coater, its an automotive product I found when doing my truck restoration. Smells and looks similar to frame saver (I have a hunch FS is just rebranded vehicle cavity wax). The real killer is the 36" spray wand with a 360 degree tip, just spray and pull, no shaking the frame around etc.
I use the AMSOIL MP-HD because it is super easy to get. I think good application is the most important part so some of the alternate options with nicer nozzles could work better. But the Amsoil stuff is so cheap ($25AUD a can) I don’t mind using a bit extra and/or doing a second spray in the critical areas after the first one has cured.
What is the OD of the spray tip? I.e. how big do your vent holes have to be to use it?
I just measured the tip at 6.3mm so at 0.25" vent holes. Youd still need to squirt the stays the traditional ways but for main tubes its awesome.
I’ve been using fluid film. No complaints other than the sheep smell. Might be a bit thicker than other products though, it seems to stay put rather than run along a surface
Used this stuff. The hardest is to get in the frame. Messing with straws, funnels etc
I recently used Fluid Film on a frame, and decided to spray my slightly rusty trailer hitch.
I’ve been amazed at how good the trailer hitch still looks after a number of winter storms and a lots of miles driving on salty wet New England roads.
Someone asked Peter Weigle why he came up with framesaver when fluid film exists. I recall his answer was that it didn’t travel to the far reaches of tubes. You can get sprayers for fluid film that allow you to go all the way into a tube, but your vent holes might have to be bigger than usual.
To be fair you really only need the framesaver at the bottom of the seat tube and down tube, and at the front/bottom of the chainstays.
Everywhere else gravity will deal with water just fine.
Mass production steel frames are being ED-coated on the inside (Surly, Allcity, Soma, etc). Is this something that any of the custom framebuilders choose to do? Or framesaver / automotive wax is enough?