Ya, I’m not sure about the really thin section. Might be too thin. Could beef up the wall thickness there, but that might introduce other problems.
This one might be better as a solid machined part, like Cobra’s MTB yoke. It’ll be heavier for sure but trustworthy.
The nub is .8mm thick. The rest of the body is 1.8mm thick, or twice as thick as a normal 3/4x.035 stay. Maybe that’s enough, maybe it isn’t 
Here’s a FM160 body for PMW snap ring dropouts. The brake bosses are angled 5º to keep them closer to the main body. The main body angles 2º inboard and then 10º at the end for the chainstay connection. Main body thickness is 1.9mm. Boss thickness is 1mm, except for the top 5mm, which is solid.
There’s probably a cleaner way to integrate the bosses to reduce their bulk, but this was challenging enough for me as is. Weighs 76g.
Even if this never gets printed, it’s really fun to design these things.
FM body v14.step (1.3 MB)
Here is a batch of Custom Frame Forum user-designed parts from January’s order! From Fusion360 to Fusion Metal (get it?).
@manzanitacycles Sorry, I missed this design for last month’s order! It looks great. I will ping you when we spool up the March order (near the end of the month). I am sure your design would have changed by then.
One suggestion: I don’t think its worth opening up these holes:
Since the “tube” will be printed vertically, those sections will likely require support material. More importantly, those windows could allow the part to warp. I would avoid it if possible!
Awesome. I’m in for the next one
Sick! I recognize one of those 
Hey Daniel, I have been working on a Y- yoke design for a balance bike and it is kind of kicking my butt, I was hoping you could give me a couple tips.
any suggestions or pro tips?
Cheers
Trade secret 
but I PM’ed you some secrets
hello friends!
i am looking for some critique on my seat stay yoke. designed around a 2.6 tire, 5/8x035 seat stays and a 7/8x049 seat tube connector. if it works well i will make a design for 1/2 stays, and if i somehow start planning ahead it would be cool to print the seat tube miter as well.
my question is - what is the internal structure needed for metal 3d prints? i normally run cables though the seat stays (unsleeved) and hope to do that with this design. would it be beneficial to add something internally so supports dont print in this area?
Nice job, very stylish part. Printing this part is a puzzle…
I am trying to think of the best orientation. Visualizing the layers forming, both orientations have islands that appear. Since those nubs are are mostly aesthetic, I think it will be OK.
Aesthetics aside, if the printed parts were designed for female joints, I think it would cut down on a ton of print time, support material, and printed material. It would also be stronger because the joints are overlapped. You could even print in some holes to feed the silver:
Also the steeper you make these struts, the better they will print:
Unless that angle is >60deg, you will need support material. However, every little bit counts, and if you can steepen the angle by 5deg, it will help the part print better.
Finally, I would pull the tire clearance in as much as possible. The shorter those struts are, the better the print will be. Since you are in 3D CAD, you might as well tighten up the clearance.
Thank you for the insight!
As soon as I loaded it into Cura I really realized how much support it would require. I printed a pla version laying flat, but I’m guessing doing the clean up with a metal part would be a nightmare haha
I was hoping to keep the aesthetics as close to possible to what I’m building now, but now I totally get having external joints would be better in more then one way. Silvering the way I have it now would be pretty annoying, on top of the printing and strength draw backs.
I’ll drop back into fusion and see what it would look like flipped!
looks awesome, too bad you can’t just glue in the PLA part 
With metal printing, I don’t think it’s good practice to print “tube” shapes flat. The first few layers are will have a lot of surface area (you can visualize this by scrolling through the layers in Cura). This would lead to a lot of heat buildup and warping. Usually, they will tip the part to avoid this.
In general, the support material is not a bad thing. However, it’s usually an indicator that there is some inefficiency in your design for 3D printing. For a good design, you want the support material to help your print along, not be reliant on it.
With female joints, maybe you can use the printing as an opportunity to stylize the joint:
@wzrd that is sweet!
When is last call for this months print batch?
I just started ramping up another order, so let’s say April 14th deadline
Is this still going on?
Yup, next order is ~1mo from now. Sorry, I have not been regular with updating this thread. the last two months have been all tradeshows, bike shows, bike events, etc…
Best way is to DM me to ask. However, it would be great if people could post their designs here. Part of the reason why I am helping people print is to push the tech forward in the community!
No problem! Hopefully I’ll have something together to send to the printer by then, I’ll make sure to post it here if I do!
