Back in the jig, I raised it another inch so I can get all the way under the bottom bracket to build the rear end.
You ever get the feeling that the thing just wants to be built? When the dumb little shit you try with stuff you have laying around just…works. You dont need to make 10 trips to the store or whatever, that was today. That doesn’t happen all that often, so I’m gonna take a victory lap.
It’s a long, dumb story, but the ending is that the place where the pull link needs to mount is .004" away from being dead nuts on. On my “pRiNt” that center pivot point is 79.5mm below the center of the bb, thats 3.129". As it sits in the jig right now it’s 3.125" to the center and im gonna call that good enough. I’d rather be lucky than good.
In another huge personal victory, it doesn’t appear that I’m gonna have to cut a big chunk out of the top tube to clear the piggyback on the shock. I don’t even know who I am anymore.
I also set a “seat stay” in the area just to get an idea and i really like the profile. Kinda fun to think there will be no bike above that point, just tire.
I’m in complete agreement about more shorter = more funner for the park. I also figure I can add a longer stem if I really need to but theres not a lot i I can do if its simply too long. And every time I’ve made frames shorter, I like them better than the long version, so im betting that’s gonna be the case here.
Just curious have you’ve experimented with 0 reach stems on the longer park bikes. Not saying it would be the better way to go as it still probably wouldn’t be as playful as a shorter reach rig but maybe good to try. Asking as a few are showing up in production now and I don’t have a MTB long enough to try one out but would love too.
I haven’t, because there was a bunch of stuff I wanted to change anyway but I definitely would have. I think they’re interesting and I also like the added stack…I might look more into that for the trail bike, that damn thing is also too long.
Why?! Why bother making a removable insert if you can’t swap 'em between the same part with a 19mm or 22mm bore? Thats just stupid. Now you have to make 2 versions of every sprocket, spider and everything other thing in your catalog, one for each size, and carry 2 different inserts. Stupid.
I wanted to switch the 104 bcd spider off my hardtail (22mm axle, black) for the one on the park rig (19mm axle, gold) but I guess its getting painted instead. Man, thats really annoying.
That’s some free range engineering on that shit. Bad idea guys, 1 star.
I’ve been back and forth on a bash guard. First, it would need to live in the same area as parts of the rear triangle, chain stays and link and stuff. Second, it always rubbed me wrong that a non-ebay bash guard is, like $75, when chainrings are $40-50. Im just annoyed that the sacrificial thing I gotta buy to protect my expensive chainring, costs more than the thing it’s intended to protect.
Enter the 36t, ebike chainring. They’re cheap as a red brick and just as reliable. They’re steel, so they’re their own bash guard. I got a pair for $38 so if I do manage to, somehow, demolish one, I have a spare in my toolbox.
Speaking of spares. I needed a udh axle, figured I’d grab a spare hanger. Since I didn’t need to buy a bunch of stuff for this build, i thought a small color change was in order. The other one was black and green and gold. This one will be primarily black, keeping the green in the cockpit (stem, bars) but I’m replacing the gold with…
Guesses? First one to get it will earn themselves a hearty congratulations. You’re trying to guess the color of the burgtec axles and hanger, if I wasn’t quite clear enough about that…
Also, want all the bros to leave you alone at the bike park? Put some pink on your shit, they have no idea what to do with me and leave me to my business. I love it.
Pretty sure it was a hearty congratulations, which you have received. However! As a special treat for guessing it so quickly, I’ll not only double your prize but I’ll also throw in a complimentary Home Version of our game. Thanks again for playing and a very, very hearty congratulations!
In other news, these dropouts + a 142mm hub are just about perfect for a Specialized axle (172mm) so that should be easy to source a replacement if I need one.
I failed to notice that there’s a beveled washer under the head of the Specialized axle, so it sits like this in the dropout.
I have a countersink that appears to be the same angle as this washer so i can cut my bevel and fine tune how much thread engagement I get. Hopefully, I don’t have to modify the axle. I love it when a plan comes together.
Interesting. I hope I’m not the only one who didn’t know this…apparently udh axle measurements are for the overall length, including the actual head of the “bolt” I didn’t know this, because usually hardware is measured from under the head to the tip ()
There was enough meat on the nds dropout that i made it work. But, heads up, i guess?
Is this just how these are measured? Seems like it would introduce a lot of inconsistency across manufacturers? I’m, very obviously, not an engineer, but this seems…weird? Anyone else? Just me?
I think it’s just the countersunk type axles that measure things wrong. All the axles I have at work and all the aftermarket ones (old man mountain, Robert axle project) measure from under the head.
Thats super interesting. So they’re not even all measured one way? Thats hilarious, not a huge surprise because mountain bike stuff, but still hilarious. I’m actually little shocked they were able to agree on thread pitch and it doesn’t change based on length or color or something. How silly.
but im gonna paint it anyway…
Hearty Congratulations!
