Let me know! Oddly enough a kid’s bike company reached out for some help for this, Apparently for kids’ bikes, USA regulations require at least a 30deg banking angle without pedal strikes.
2 Wheel dynamics are interesting because your lean angle is coupled to steering geometry, rider input, and steering angle.
I think you could write the equations of motion from first principles (I think some people already have) or just run it through a physics sim.
I always love finding out little details and regulations that I never knew existed. My favorite is dirt jumpers sold with the most absolute garbage front brakes because they all get thrown away immediately but are required by law to be installed when sold.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B6q4tsJlmEn/?igshid=MWZjMTM2ODFkZg==
@Woofcustommetal is a genius and has done something like this. I don’t know how he did it, but I’d hit him up for any advice on turning and lean angle.
I was just going to take the whole bike and lean it over and ignore the changes that the fork angle would introduce.
Quick idea for the lean angle thing. If you do a “plane at angle” or whatever the feature is in the construction drop down. Around your ground plane and put it at 30° then draw your speed bump again and extrude it symmetrically.
Don’t know if that makes any sense but it could give a visualisation of it. I’m away from my computer today but I can do an example later if you need.
I decided to just create an extruded curb, speed bump thing and then make a joint around the tire so that I can move it around to any angle I choose.
This is a 20 degree tilt over a 5 inch tall speed bump. I just moved the handlebars and front wheel an arbitrary angle though just to make it look cool. So the front wheel doesn’t actually touch the ground.
That looks far better than my rudimentary idea. I didn’t know how well jointed your assembly was. Nice one!
It’s not really jointed up that well. I just rotated the ground and then rotated my screenshot so the ground appeared level. Lol.
I haven’t spent too much time on this but I did get to standardizing the bracket dimensions. I figured its gonna be easier if all the brackets are the same width. The two upper brackets are the same height and the two lower brackets are the same height. But then all the mounting is the exact same. Hopefully that helps me make less mistakes when making this thing(if I ever get to that point) The brackets come from 1"x3" steel tubing. I hope I can purchase in a reasonably small quantity.
I also was able to add in the fender mount seat stay and chain stay braces.
as promised, Brake Mounts!
I built something very similar to what the OP is proposing, but without the second lower cargo basket.
My take is that the additional effort to make it a long-nose bike was not worth it for the small gain in carrying capacity over something like the Yasujiro and others posted above. It’s fun though.
That’s a sweet little hauler. I dig the double top tube. How did you attach the basket?
I think my problem is I’m great at thinking of impractical things that I find interesting. I know that there are definitely better ways to do what I want to do, but this just seems like a fun challenge. I’m driven by aesthetic and creative ideals. But that’s what keeps me motivated to keep working on something.
Did you build that whole bike from scratch or modify an existing bike?
Hey, you can’t see it from the side but the upper tube on the front was actually an oval. I think I used some U bolts to attach the basket. I had access to a really nice bender at the time to make the oval out of .058x1-1/4 tube.
The back part of the thing had been a mini Velo, my first bike actually. The geometry was weird - I got the BB too low to the ground - so I cut off the front and used it to make this.
It was a fun bike but there are more practical ways to transport a large Wald basket. Also, for sporty riding, there are some weird things that happen when your front wheel is that far out ahead and consequently has less weight on it. For example, skidding the front wheel on turns when it’s a bit wet out.
But all that said, I really think the advantage that the hobbyist frame builder has is that we can build the weird shit that makes no sense. So don’t let me discourage you!
@JimN
I’m grateful for your inputs and advice. I’m not discouraged, only encouraged. Your bike looks so cool and I’d love to have something as rad as that. So hopefully this turns out well.
I was able to mock up a design for a platform instead of the upper basket. This might be something that comes in handy for weird bulky shapes to be carried. Again, I’m not sure what tubing would be best to make sure it is strong enough to handle heavy loads. I think the heaviest thing I would carry would be a 40 lb bag of dog food or chicken food. It’s .5 inch tubing right now, but it’s super easy to change that to anything else.
I have thought about what some people have said and I think I will add a rear rack. or at least add the rack mounts to the frame so I can add a rack later if I want. Though, knowing this project, I’ll probably end up making something custom because I’m not aware of anyone making mini Velo rear racks.
til next time.
There should be a little nob on the front fork where it comes out of the headset, enough to have a collar to lock it in place, unless you are thinking to have a removable steering column that locks from the bottom (to keep it flush on the top) in which case you will need to change your front fork design slightly
I think I get what you’re saying. The fork would hopefully be a normal design.
Is the bit above the headset necessary? The headset will have a top cap, but I guess there should be more tube sticking up. Does it need enough for a collar or would a 5mm spacer work?
Is this more in line with what you’re thinking?
Yes, the last design is closer to what I am thinking, I only bring it up so you can account for that space and how it could affect the top basket.
On my cargo (post coming) I have a double lock ring, I would say nearly 1in long to keep the correct pressure on the headset. I would love to find a slicker solution but so far I have other fires to put out and that is lower on my priority list.
If you are building the fork from scratch, a solution can be found in order to have a strong and flush locking system, for example, using a “spider” with a cap may not be strong/safe enough alone to put the correct pressure BUT, you may, instead of a “spider” inside the steering tube, have a longer bolt and have a welded nut at the bottom of the steering tube, or even inside at a certain height, something that won’t move at all.
Just spitballing here 
Note: A light mount in that area could be a great idea to hide the column locking system and make it more functional.
I think I’ll make the 10mm spacer that I have mocked up in the design right now go to a light mount. I will add a binder bolt.
Definitely allow room for a locking spacer. I know Problem Solvers make one with an 8mm stack height.
This is the arrangement that Omnium cargo bikes used to come with. There were still a few instances where customer headsets would loosen so the forks now feature a threaded lock-ring for maximum security.
I was creeping on a Riese Muller cargo bike today and saw that they had this slick locking headset made by Arcos. I could not find the product on their site, but it looks like this:
That is perfect!
I’m just slowly plugging away at minute details on this. I have a random bottom bracket that is not the traditional 38.1 diameter. It is super thick and heavy so I could just get some laser cut parts and braze it all together. I can’t afford to buy the jig from framebuildersupply, and I figure that my level of accuracy isn’t going to affect it that much. I just make these things for myself anyway.
