I am using a setup similar to Kris. It is a little awkward at first, but you get used to it. Now I can’t stand small cups.
With the #12 flooding cup you actually will turn the agon down and use less than the Furick cups. Also, not related to your issue, but get a flow meter so you can test the flow at the end of the cup. It will help you quickly identify if you have a leak and can help pinpoint flow/turbulence related issues.
FWIW, I hit every single tungsten with 600 grit wet dry paper. While none of them were dark/gross with oxidization, they definitely brightened up and the issue with arc starts seems to be gone now.
I’ve got another personal bike coming up soon so maybe it’s time to bust out the Neuhaus/44 Bikes setup and try again.
You didn’t have a magnet holding the work pieces together by any chance? That’ll make your arc dance 
That’s a good thought but no, no magnets.
I picked up a multi-process welder - mainly for MIG to build stands and other stuff in the shop but I was thinking I’d like to learn to TIG so I got the multi-process unit.
The welder has lift-start TIG process. I’m curious about anyone else using lift-start. I’m a little worried that at the end of a weld when I have to lift the torch to stop, the purged environment is broken up while the weld is still very hot. Will that cause problems with the weld? I’m assuming so. Thoughts from someone who knows?
It’s lift start not lift stop, just shut off current with your pedal.
There isn’t a pedal.
On youtube, it shows examples of putting a chunk of some other (non ferrous) material next to the piece you’re welding and you essentially run the bead off the piece being welded onto the sacrificial piece. This doesn’t preserve the shielding.
I can lift at the end of a bead and then put the torch back down to re-establish the shield but it just doesn’t seem right for thin walled tubing used in bicycle making.
I’m either over thinking the importance of the shielding OR this is just not the right machine for it.
I know a guy who welded a bunch of bmx handlebars with lift arc. its definitely hard to do considering the frequent stops on bike stuff and not being able to adjust amperage would make it really hard. there is a way to kind of snap the arc off and keep the sheilding, but never done it on such thin bike stuff and there is also possibility of arc strikes next to the weld if your not careful. I like the idea of running the arc onto a different piece of metal to prevent alot of these problems thats really smart.
My frame was built with lift tig. I don’t recommend it, but it is still holding up so it is possible. you can put brass at the end of the weld, so you finish on brass, but it was almost impossible for me.
Honestly I would just buy a cheap HF tig if I could go back.
I am a cyclist of a certain age, so TIG frames aren’t really my bag. I am in no hurry to head down this rabbit hole. I will play around with it but mainly it will be a MIG machine. I was just curious if others had figured out how to deal with the lift start and how it affected the shielding.
Anyone using passive shade helmet? Have heard a few times some builders prefer it. Can see weld better and no flashing. Opinnions?
I prefer the fixed shade welding hood for the bike welding for sure. Way easier for me to see clearly. With the auto, I see multiple faint arcs next to the real arc because of all the plastic and reflections. Also welding with pulse can make autodark hoods flash you, at least in my experience. Plus the fixed hood is a lot lighter than an autodark. Its a pain sometimes like if I have to swap lenses out to weld higher amps or whatever but its worth it.
I do use an autodark for wirefeed welding though. And I have heard that the new speedglas g-02 or whatever is really good and has replaced the fixed hood for some welders i know… I am really curious to try although it does cost over $1000.
You don´t have a pedal, but then you must have a switch on the torch, right? Somehow you need to start the arc.
Scratch start or lift start creates the arc through proximity of the electrode (negative) and work piece (positive). There is no amperage control. The arc is stopped by breaking it from the work piece through distance or by inserting a non-grounded part between the electrode and the work piece.
On my machine (ESAB EMP215i) lift tig works different. Besides having the option of the pedal, the torch comes with a switch like a normal hf torch.
I have to touch the metal to start the arc, but for it to start I have to or either press the switch or use the pedal.
To cut the arc just press the switch or off the pedal.
Maybe that‘s why is not so bad.
Just read this entire thread and there’s a lot a of great info in here. I’m diving into the tig world head first. Just sold my old welder and ordered a new one and hoping to have it soon. I don’t think I’ve ever been so excited to have just bought a welder in my life. Can’t wait to get going with it. Thanks for everyone’s contribution to this thread so far. It’s been a great read.
Brandon
What’d you get? I think this thread caused me to buy a primeweld 225 about a year ago. I am very happy with it
I ended up getting an Everlast Power Tig 200. I’m pumped!
Turns out, the Everlast are out of stock to the next few weeks. I believe I’m going to get a Primeweld’s as well. They do look impressive
See if they’ll upgrade you to the 210EXT or have a display model they can sell you. The EXT’s are far better. I will also say that Everlast has the absolute best customer support, and it is worth waiting for.