OFXD builds (Scandinavian design)

If only they had bigger socks and longer legs.

I wanted to make internal cable routing in the chainstay for the derailleur cable. The cable arrives to the top end through a tube and I wanted a no hassle push installation of the cable. This funnel is brazed inside the CS and it routes the cable out of a hole in the side of the tube. I made a slot at the other end so I can turn it to face the hole easily.

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Frame all put together and holes reamed to size.

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I whipped up a fork as well in about 2 hours from what I had in hand - track fork legs and crown and some Nagasawa fork ends. I’m going to have interesting time retrofitting a road brake mount on it, but I really needed a fork so that we could test ride the bike.

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No idea what I am looking at, but I love what I see! What a unique silhouette.

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Reminds me of a JAD frame. The first time I saw it was in an old Ride BMX magazine from 1996 where Ken Hale and Dave Young were testing it and there were photos of some insane (for the time) riding on it, including a massive gap gone wrong.

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Wow, I had not seen a JAD before.

My main inspiration was the Rossin Crono Dominator, but I also own an early Javelin TT bike with with similar aesthetics.

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Some partsbin parts in place to check how it rides.

I’m at workshop doin final prep now before paint.

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Nice build!

That flame straightening video is so well done. It’s almost unbelievable how it happens. Do the tubes turn red or is the temperature below that point?

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Yes, I put a red spot on the tube. Next time I have to have a multicamera set-up :smiley:

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Great video! Amazing to see how it moves I real time. I have heard of classic Japanese builders doing this but my understanding was they get it glowing hot.

Are you able to align the dropouts if they are slightly out of plane with each other?

probably really hard to align this type of drop-out if it is out of whack. maybe impossible without cutting the welds. these are fine, I always have dummy in the drop-outs while welding, even if the frame is not in the jig.

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I had to make a stem for the bike as well so my girlfriend can have her comfortable riding position. Material is 22.2 x 1.47mm cromo. The clamp material is offcuts from 1 1/8 steerers I once picked up from a bike shop.

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Two days in the “pain(t) shop”

Nina wanted British Racing Green and I asked my paint guy if there was a way to make it pop a bit, he mixed me a metallic BRG base and a glitter filled chameleon pearl coat. I finished it off with a coat of clear.

My paint shop is just a garage with no ventilation, a silent 24l compressor and a 20 euro Biltema (Scadinavian Harbour Freight) paint gun.

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These oilless silent compressors are the beeeest for small shops when you don’t use air tools.

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They’re fantastic if your air needs are small. In the US, they are mostly sold with tiny tanks, so I really need to plumb in another 10 or 20 gallons of storage.

I do miss the capability to run die grinders though. The electric ones have gotten way better but they’re still bulky relative to even a very cheap pneumatic grinder.

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Amazing work. What size is that, looks like it’s tiny but also not tiny. The shapes make it so hard to judge.

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Thanks! Reach 395, Stack 519, Wheelbase 990.

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This is the stem with a support for the bar bag to keep it nice and upright. The best part about making stuff is making stuff that makes (someone’s) life better.

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I call this the Feather (I’m reading Jeff Noon’s Vurt). It’s light like an Assaver, but you can fix it securely. On a small bike like this using an S-Blade or something that is fixed on the seat stays does not work very well.

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