Looks like a frame. Great progress
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Small steps. Main pivot and yoke bearing housings.
Looks like the bigger ones are s355 and smaller s235 .
Only 2.5mm wall, hope it. Is strong enought.
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Made a jig and did some welding. Struggeled a little, but it is straight and bearings still fit.
Edit: Actually it is not good. I f up, top one was supposed to be 82mm wide, but somehow I made it 62. How is this possible I dont know. And I do not have any spare tubes.
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So guys I reamed the seattube, but I made it a little crooked. I have to use force to get it max down, because it is sliding against the back part of the ST. It kind of works, but would like it to be better.
Anyone knows some handy fix? Or ill just try to sand it down later.
Edit: Note to future builders. I did not use a heat sink when welding, so I had some ugly high spots inside. And I used a cheap adjustable reamer with adjustable wrench, because my t-handle did not fit. That meant I had to go step by step and the high sports probably pushed my reamer crooked. Learn from my mistakes.
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A little change of plans - decided to ditch the yoke idea.
First time it is very hard to fit everything and make it narrow enough without bends. Will see how it evolves, I might return to the idea.
Managed to get Ultimate Deluxe air with Megneg for a good price.
Got one dropout made with 5 axis.
Next week I hope to make the other side and spot weld first tubes to see if I can make it without bends.
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Great progress! I love that dropout, very creative use of the space. This was custom-machined, correct?
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Yup. I designed it and the cnc program was mostly made by someone smarter. Used an old cutter that they don’t use any more.
Made it a lot bigger so I will have easier time welding. And the plan is to cut it rounder to follow the tube profile after welding.
Edit: Axle is off center, because it gives me a little more chain clearance.
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that dropout does look nice. I can’t tell completely but it looks like it will fall afoul of the SRAM Transmission derailleur. Not important if you don’t plan on running their fancy stuff, but just something to keep note of.
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No idea. I’m going to use Deore 11 speed.
I just spent 3 hours making CNC program for the left dropout and suddenly decided to totally change the design. Damn that bike is munching hours, but I’m a lot happier with my new left design.
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This time I did the program myself. Took a long time 
[Dropouts.Maxle 180 12x1.UDH.step|attachment]
Here is a file with the dropouts, SRAM UDH and Maxle 180 12x1.
Dropouts.Maxle 180 12x1.UDH.step (1.7 MB)
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Have to make some shock and main pivot mounting hardware, maybe it is going to pull itself straight before I start fixing, but I’d like to hear about methods how to measure how straight my wheels and frame are tracking.
I spot welded the seatstays and it looks like the rear wheel is ever so slightly aiming to the left (Left ST longer). I’m afraid my jig is not the best for small changes. I’m thinking of cutting one of the spots open and smacking it with a hammer 
. And spot it back on while the frame is put together.
Otherwise the frame looks straight to the eye. How do you guys make sure everything is straight? Kind of hard when the front wheel is flopping around.
Pics. 120 fork for testing.
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I had some similar issues with my last full squish. Turned out that the dropouts had twisted a bit when welding so the faces were not parallel and when you tightened the rear wheel it would twist and wind up the whole swingarm. I made a bar that bolted into the dropout hole and a jig that held the swingarm by the main pivot and bent them in line again.
The main symptom of the issue was that everything would line up until you tightened the rear axle then it would go all over the show. the shock mount can do the same thing too depending on how you have done the hardware.
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The rear wheel can be off HUGE amounts and you’ll never feel it. Like visually WTF levels of out of skew before you notice it on anything other than no handed on the road.
If you struggle to see it out visually it will ride just fine.
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Just wanted to pop in and say your progress looks great. I’m planning on starting a similar build very soon and I’ve enjoyed watching your build unfold.
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Thank you. I’m trying to post a little bit more, because when I started building I realized how much info is missing and I have to figure it out myself. Probably not very interesting for seasoned builders, but newbs hopefully can learn a thing or two.
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Trust me, even the seasoned builders are missing information, they are just too afraid to ask 
I know everyone appreciates the doccumentation!
Also, great work on the dropouts! I have wondered what an insert on the NDS dropout to match the DS UDH dropout looks like: looks great!
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just mount the reamer on vice and use the frame itself as a handle. I don’t have handles for any one my big reamers 
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Another week has passed and the progress has been slower then expected .
Got it somehow straight and welded lower parts so I don’t have to do it when chainstays are attached. Will see if it still fits the jig for next tubes.
Made stainless main pivot bolt and 8mm shock bolt. Was total pain with cheap and worn chinese lathe. I used a calibrated stainless bar that measured 14.98mm, a little sanding made it perfect. Threaded both ends and loctited one bolt. Bolts are also modified and stainless.
I got double bearings. This is something I have not talked about. I machined it wrong, then reused the part when I ditched the yoke idea and then realised I don,t have a lip to hold the bearings in place(lip is in the middle), so decided double bearings is the way forward. Not proud about it, but it works. Maybe it is stiffer now 
?
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I need to buy 4 pot brakes. My experience is with Shimano and SRAM products. I Don’t like SRAM because I have short fingers and the pull is too long for me (I like levers close to the bar). Shimano feels better, but is maybe a touch sensitive for sloppy conditions.
Is there something amazing that I have not used.
There are good deals on Shimano Deore, Magura MT5 and TRP SLATE EVO right now.
Any recommendations?
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I also don’t love the on/off feel of Shimano hydros. I don’t mind SRAM brakes but hate working with DOT fluid. Recently picked up a set of TRP Trail EVO to try. Only just getting them set up now and first impressions are good but they do have a long pull similar to SRAM brakes which it sounds like you won’t like. Based on that alone I’d say give the Maguras a go!
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